The Local Food Project at Airlie holds an annual Harvest Dinner that provides an opportunity for local food growers, advocates, chefs, and other community members to come together for delicious food and inspiring discussion. Airlie Center’s Executive Chef develops a multi-course meal using ingredients from the LFP garden and other local sources, accompanied by Virginia wines.

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The 2008 Harvest Dinner took place September 7, a warm late-summer evening, first bright with sun, then radiant under a pink and blue sunset. A table for 20 guests was set up between the pepper plants and the emerging rows of fall lettuce. Guests enjoyed hors d’oeuvres and local wine and beer as they chatted and strolled among the garden beds. Garden staff (and two willing guests!) performed an original skit that poked fun at the dangers of letting celebrity status take time from growing good food.

The meal began with a first course of veal sweetbread, tomato and basil, along with a local Pinot Grigio. Guests introduced themselves and talked about the interesting projects they’re involved in. As each course was served Executive Chef Jeff Witte explained what it was and where he had sourced the ingredients from. Many of the products had come from farms represented at the table.

As guests savored the harmony of flavors, Local Food Project Director Pablo Elliott started the discussion with questions contributed by the participants.

“With a Big Mac costing $2 how do you persuade people to shop at farmer’s markets?” For neighbors and friends who may be unaware of the benefits of eating local, the dedicated locavores suggested startin with more education and awareness. “Many people don’t realize that fast food is cheap because the products have been subsidized,” one guest commented.

Another question played devil’s advocate: “Local is the ‘it’ thing. What do you do when Wal-Mart starts saying it sells ‘local’ goods?” Is a “Locally Grown” sign really enough? Guests pointed out that eaters should get to know the growers, develop face to face relationships, and spend time on the farms where the food is grown.

Guests also pondered the question of equal access to healthy food. “Is the charge of elitism (regarding prices and access) valid or is it an early adopter phase that’s necessary to bring local food to the mainstream?” The best way to go about this, guests decided, is to go beyond education and start inspiring people and building excitement. Families should learn how to cook with fresh ingredients again, bringing back traditions of using locally-sourced ingredients to create meals unique to the region. One guest commented that this question of access gets to the heart of the discussion around local food. The movement has to reach past a select group and become a source of sustenance that all people have a right to.

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